Salmon Buying Guide

+ recipe for Salmon Shawarma Salad

When salmon is on your shopping list, you might think there isn’t much choice involved. Salmon is salmon, right? Well, not quite. At the fish counter, you’ll usually find both wild and farmed salmon, but even within those categories there are more options than you might realize, and what you buy can make a big difference when it comes to taste, budget and sustainability.

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Wild Salmon

I learned about wild salmon first hand several years ago on a press trip to Alaska, hosted by Sitka Salmon Shares, where I got to meet local fishermen, see how the fish is caught and processed, and sample all five varieties of salmon caught in that part of the Pacific. (All wild salmon sold is from the Pacific. Atlantic salmon is only commercially available farm raised. More on that in a minute.)

While in Alaska I was taught a handy trick to remember the salmon varieties caught there ---one the local kids learn early in life---use your five fingers. I have been impressing (or, perhaps, annoying) people at cocktail parties with it ever since.

Thumb: rhymes with chum (also called keta)

Pointer: the finger you’d use to poke someone in the eye—represents sockeye

Middle: the biggest, is king (also called chinook)

Ring: where you might wear a silver band—is silver (also called coho)

Pinky: pink salmon, obviously.

Each of these salmon varieties have unique attributes which make for a different cooking and eating experience. The most commonly available at a typical fish store are king, sockeye and coho.

• King is a large fish with a buttery texture thanks to its high fat content. Its flesh can range from pale to deep red. It’s the most celebrated salmon variety and the most expensive (and my personal favorite).

• Sockeye is a smaller fish with a deep red, compact flesh, bold salmon flavor, and a lower fat content.

• Coho is also a smaller fish but has a delicate flavor and texture, and a medium fat content.

Sockeye and coho are both delicious options that are considerably less costly than king salmon, but because they are leaner it is important to cook them more gently to avoid overcooking, and they tend to benefit from an added layer of oil or other fat.

Keta (aka chum) salmon and pink salmon are the smallest of the five varieties and are pale pink with a mild flavor and lower fat content. They are typically used for canning, but you might see them at the store or on-line now and then.

Farmed Salmon